Tavern trade in Russia! The history of the development of public catering in Russia.

1. History of alcohol in the world.

2. The appearance of taverns.

3. The structure of taverns.

4. Drinking business reforms.

5. Foreigners "about the drunkenness of Russians."

6. Attempts to close drinking establishments.

7. Beer in Russia.

8. Beer halls and buffets.

9. Conclusion.

Kabaki in Russia.

Why is it that we, the Russians, always have a "burning soul" and want to miss something like that, stronger? The answer to this very complex question must be sought not only in the recesses of the tricky Russian soul, but also in history.

About drunkenness different nations have known for a long time. In ancient China, a thousand years before the birth of Christ, the emperor threatened drunkards with the death penalty. Around the 6th century BC, the Hindus and Aryans (the forefathers of Europeans) had laws of Manu that forbade such abuses. Herodotus wrote about libations from the Persians when discussing the most important issues. Homer mentioned Saturnalia - holidays in honor of Bacchus. With the growth of wealth in ancient Rome, addictions also became more sophisticated - the Romans knew about 160 varieties of grape wines alone.

From the 13th century, vodka began to spread in Europe. At first, it served as a medicine and was sold only in pharmacies. In Germany, wine was so cheap that for the smallest coin you could treat yourself more than once. In general, the variety of alcohol showed the level of development of the people.

African and Australian savages drank palm wine, South American Indians - tincture of kava, the Chinese - rice vodka. The struggle with the "green serpent" also began - for example, in America, "cat concerts" were held near taverns - they shouted, whistled, howled, beat on pans.

Until the 15th century in Russia, the sale and production of alcohol was not limited to anything. There is a legend that Prince Vladimir, choosing a faith for the country, rejected Mohammedanism because of the ban on drinking. As if the prince said to the ambassadors: "Russia is the joy of drinking. We cannot exist without it." This is a legend composed by scribe monks retroactively, long after the adoption of Christianity by Russia. For centuries, the people have caustically ridiculed the monastic brethren prone to voguishness. In the old days, every wealthy owner "smoked" vodka for his house, insisted on liqueurs and tinctures. The wise Olga punished the Drevlyans: "Behold, I am coming to you; yes, and come on a lot of honey." But there were no strong drinks then. They drank intoxicated mash, velvet beer, stout meads, and honey kvass. "Vodka" is a diminutive of "water". Our ancestors drank not "English bitterness", not "wormwood", but "sweet vodka".

Red wine has been known in Russia since the 10th century. It under the name "Fryazhsky" appeared on the tables of the rich, sometimes in the monastery walls. Ordinary people were content with sweet vodka and kvass. The taste of the drinks was such that, "as you drink a cup, you want another, you drink another - the soul burns on the third." Still - there were standing meads, sweet vodka in barrels of the forties.

All this was drunk in taverns (tavern - from the words "feed", "feed"). You can compare them with clubs: they learned the news there, they had conversations. There was a proverb: "In the tavern and in the bath - all equal nobles." That's all, but the woman was ordered to enter there. But everything was not so smooth: a complaint to the prince of that era has been preserved: "Lord! The peasants are drinking away."

In 1360, the Arab Regez invented not sweet vodka. There were taverns (Tatar word) - inns. Alcoholic drinks with a high alcohol content, such as vodka, appeared in Europe in the 13th century, and in the 16th century vodka appeared in Russia. From the middle of the 16th century, with the advent of vodka in Russia, its production was established at special distilleries.

Tsar Ivan Vasilyevich the Terrible, after the capture of Kazan in 1552, founded the first Russian tavern. Kabak is a Tatar word and it comes from the name of a vessel made of pumpkin. I must say that the Tatar tavern is an inn in which alcoholic drinks and all kinds of food were served. The first tavern was opened by Ivan the Terrible in Moscow (now there is a 5-star hotel "Baltika" - not far from the Kremlin, and in the translation of the Baltic - it's swamp and mud). The tavern at the very beginning was founded for the guardsmen. Oprichnina is a method of holding power with the help of terror and violence, people who went to the oprichnina are usually people without moral principles. For them to rob a church, a monastery was worth nothing. They were, as it were, outside the law and outside of that patriarchal Russia in which moral values ​​were formed for centuries. For them, these values ​​practically did not exist. Moreover, when taverns began to bring very large incomes, Ivan the Terrible issued a special decree - so that smerds and other people were allowed to visit taverns.

Taverns in Russia began to be called "Khan's" - after all, the Tatars noticed the profitability of the vodka trade and took matters into their own hands. After the Tatar yoke, the princes took possession of the taverns, and these hot places were already nicknamed "princes", and then "royal". There were taverns in Russia, both boyar and monastic. For example, the taverns of the New Jerusalem Monastery, Makaryevsky, Trinity-Sergius Lavra. From the documents of the middle of the XVII century. it turns out that in the Dvina district there were more than 20 taverns, including in the patrimony of the Antoniev-Siya monastery, on the Volok Pinezhsky, in the Soyalsky and Kevrolsky camps, in volosts and churchyards (Nenoksa, Una, Luda, Kuloe and other places). According to interrogation speeches in 1678, the location of 14 mug yards is also clarified: 4 - in Kholmogory (circle yard, cash desk, Red tavern, quarter counter), 4 - in Arkhangelsk (cup yard, altynnaya rack, Red tavern, bath tavern), 2 - in Voloka Pinezhsky (a mug yard, a tavern), 4 - in the volosts along the Dvina (in Yemets, Stupino, Nenox, Rakula).

What the royal tavern was like can be seen from the receipt of the kissers of the mug court in Nenoks, who took over the court in 1688. According to the receipt, this drinking establishment had "wine in the sovereign's measured eagle bucket - 51 buckets, and 2 tubs of beer - 50 measures, and ships: two-ruble copper wine cup, two-rouble sales, and a penny wooden cup, and an altyn slide, and a two-ruble ladle. Yes, a quarter barrel of wine, and a padlock. Such is the internal "arrangement" of the royal tavern. All measuring utensils for storing wine and selling on tap are eagle, that is, certified by the state authorities. Of the other accessories of the tavern, other documents mention a stand, benches, on which drunks often fall asleep, but nothing edible was kept in the tavern.

There were few salaried taverns, the rest were considered the property of the state treasury.

The public taverns were run by the kissers. They were called so because they kissed the cross and the Gospel that they would honestly observe the sovereign's treasury. They were rewarded for good work and profit.

Creating a detailed description of the young Russian capital in 1749-1751, A.I. Bogdanov reminded that “ from the first years here, under the reigning St. Petersburg, two noble Drinking Houses were arranged, in which various state-owned drinks of different tastes were sold, expensive vodka for sale to noble people…»

One of them - especially revered and visited by Peter I - "Avsteria on the St. Petersburg side, on the Trinity pier, near the Petrovsky bridge." On holidays, Tsar Peter appeared in it "with noble persons and ministers, before dinner for a glass of vodka."

Second " Austeria on the same St. Petersburg Island, in Bolshaya Nikolskaya Street, built, hut, in 1719". These were establishments for noble people.

There were other attractions as well. For example, "taverns, or drinking houses, where wine, vodka, beer and honey are sold in small glasses for the mean people."

In 1750-1751 there were 121 taverns in the city. They were distributed very unevenly. There are 30 taverns on St. Petersburg Island, 48 taverns on the Admiralteiskaya side, 19 taverns on the Liteynaya side, 10 taverns on the Vyborg side, and 14 taverns on Vasilyevsky Island.

At first, the Drinking Houses were farmed out to the local merchants. This has led to many abuses.

Peter I decided to find more worthy rulers. He tried to appoint merchants from among the visitors, then he identified schismatics and bearded men as kissers (that is, owners and tenants of taverns) (after all, they were stubborn and fought for their faith), but settled on retired soldiers and non-commissioned officers. After the death of Peter I, the local merchants again won in the struggle for taverns.

During the time of Peter I, taverns or “Tavern Houses” appeared, in which they sold grape wines, French vodka, and beer. Billiard tables were installed in the taverns. The first "Tavern House" was built in 1720 at Troitskaya Pier not far from the Peter and Paul Fortress and was often visited by the tsar himself.

But after 20 years, the sale of vodka and beer, as well as playing billiards, were banned in taverns. The taverns began to serve only grape wine and food. Instead of "Tavern Houses", drinking cellars with overseas grape wines were allowed. By 1750, there were already 65 such cellars in the city.

It was possible to eat in numerous taverns and in "Taverns of Cuisine" (special Houses for foreign cuisine).

The first hotels - "Inns" appeared in 1723 on St. Petersburg Island in the area of ​​​​the future Petrovskaya Embankment and on the Liteiny side. But they didn't stick. More fortunate was the Post Office Yard on the Admiralteyskaya side, which was located near the Summer Garden not far from the ferry to Troitskaya pier. It was built in 1714, was visited many times by the king and served as a venue for festivities - "victory celebrations".

By the beginning of the 19th century, restaurants, cafes, taverns, and taverns became widespread in St. Petersburg. Increasingly, taverns play the role of not only drinking establishments, but also accommodation for visitors. It was the prototype of modern hotels with restaurants. The largest taverns - the taverns of Demuth, "Bordeaux", "Nord" had "quite decent" furnished rooms.

Petersburg cafes of that time were institutions for ordinary people, for craftsmen, workers, people from the lower classes. According to the traveler G.T. Faber, who visited St. Petersburg in 1811, "institutions called cafes in St. Petersburg are unworthy of this name."

Restaurants appeared in St. Petersburg at the end of the 18th century. The first restaurateurs in St. Petersburg were French. The revolutionary events of 1789 forced many French to emigrate to Russia, primarily to the capital on the Neva. Among them were cooks, culinary specialists, and confectioners.

Under the northern sky, they continued their usual business, to the obvious pleasure of the "golden" youth of the capital and all foreigners. Many of them opened restaurants and coffee houses. The predominance of the French line in the restaurant business was felt until the middle of the nineteenth century.

The most impressive were the restaurants, which were "as good as those in Paris". In them, lunch cost 3-4 rubles, they served liqueurs and wines, tokay, cognac, kirschwasser. There were no hard drinks in the restaurants. In many memoirs, eyewitnesses enthusiastically recalled popular dishes - roasts, pasta, steaks.

In the first decades of the 20th century, restaurants operated only in the morning and afternoon. There were no dinners or nightly activities yet. Regulars of restaurants went in the evenings to visit friends and acquaintances. Therefore, in the evenings, empty restaurant halls were closed. The restaurant guests were young rich people, guards officers, foreign travelers who were not yet accustomed to Russian cuisine and Russian service. The restaurants of Tardif, Peker, Aimé have gained great fame.

According to the Main Police (it was then engaged in statistics), in 1814 in the Russian capital there were 2 coffee houses (cafes), 26 taverns, 22 gerberas, 67 kitchen tables, 35 taverns, 109 drinking houses, 259 Ren cellars. There are no restaurants among the noted yet, they were still a novelty, they did not enter into the well-established Petersburg everyday life. But already on February 2, 1821, Emperor Alexander I “Highly approved the “Regulations on hotels, restaurants, coffee houses, taverns and taverns in St. Petersburg and Moscow.”

It was these five different types of institutions that were allowed to be organized in St. Petersburg and the Mother See. According to the Regulations, the number of hotels, restaurants, coffee houses and taverns was not limited in the Russian capitals. Given the state monopoly on strong alcoholic beverages, taverns remained under strict state control, in which (and only in them!) It was allowed to sell both beer, porter, grape wines, as well as sweet and bitter vodka. Restaurants quickly gained public recognition.

Then, on the banks of the Neva, both individual restaurants and restaurants at hotels were popular. Their owners were traditionally foreigners: the French Dumas, Talon, Saint-Georges, Diamant, Simon-Grand-Jean, Coulomb, the Italians Heyde and Alexander, the Germans Clay, Otto.

1835 was a significant year in the history of restaurant business. On February 6, 1835, Nicholas 1 approved the new "Regulations on tavern establishments in St. Petersburg." Restaurants, hotels, coffee houses, taverns and taverns were separated into "tavern establishments" with special operating rules.

For the sale of drinks, cellars, shops and shops with the right to cellars were also determined. Severe quantitative restrictions have been introduced. Only 35 restaurants, 46 coffee houses, 40 taverns and 50 taverns are allowed in St. Petersburg. And cellars - 250, shops and shops with the right to cellars - 20. Moreover, in each of the parts of the city (according to the modern - in the districts) it is allowed to have a certain number of taverns.

Intensive trade, of course, required the rest of the merchant forces and the opportunity to spend money profitably - it was the taverns that greatly contributed to all this. The taverns were just as necessary as the hotel complexes of the early nineteenth century.

Restaurants and coffee houses had a more sophisticated character. In accordance with the regulation, it was allowed to keep a table in restaurants (for organizing breakfasts and lunches for visitors), serve grape wines, sweet vodkas, liqueurs, beer, porter, honey, coffee, tea, and sell smoking tobacco.

In coffee houses it was supposed to offer ice cream, lemonade, orshad, coffee, chocolate and smoking tobacco, all kinds of sweets, fruits, jams, cookies, sweets, jellies, marshmallows, syrups, liqueurs. In taverns it is permitted to "keep the provisions of life, boiled, baked and fried, consumed by people of the lower class." From drinks, kvass and "sour cabbage soup" are allowed.

In taverns, it is allowed “to maintain a table, tea, coffee and smoking tobacco, the sale of grape wines, foreign and Russian vodkas of all kinds, rum, arak, shrom, cognac, liqueurs, punch, in general, bread vodkas produced at vodka factories, also rum and vodka in the manner of French, light half-beer, mead, beer and porter. Only taverns are allowed to have tables for playing billiards, "but no more than three in each tavern."

In the first half of the 19th century, restaurants owned by Dyuli, Borel, Dusso were favorite places of "high society dandies", young aristocrats. They came here to have a drink, and sometimes to “play pranks”. People of high society, officials of the highest ranks, ministers, diplomats gathered at Fellier and Saint-Georges - especially in the summer, when families left for their dachas.

Restaurants in the modern sense appeared after the initiative of the “master of the confectionery workshop” Dominic Ritz Aport. According to his proposals, after consideration in the State Council on April 11, 1841, the Highest established a new tavern establishment "under the name of a cafe-restaurant." This new type of establishment combined the characteristic features of taverns, restaurants and coffee houses. In the "restaurant cafe" it is allowed to serve and sell:

"one). All kinds of soft drinks, as well as tea, coffee, chocolate, mulled wine, sabanon, etc. 2). Candies and various cakes. 3). Broth, steak and other supplies needed for snacks. four). Various liqueurs, liqueurs, Russian and foreign wines of the best kind, porter, foreign and Russian beer of the best kind. 5). Tobacco and cigars. It is allowed to have in the institution: 1). All published, both Russian and foreign newspapers, are permitted by the government and 2). Billiards, skittles, dominoes and chess».

The new institution introduced new rules of service. Tea, coffee and similar drinks had to be served not in portions (as was previously the case in taverns), but in cups and glasses. Liqueurs and wines - in glasses and glasses, and champagne and porter - in bottles and half bottles.

The first such cafe-restaurant Dominik Ritz Aporta appeared on Nevsky Prospekt, in the house of the Lutheran Church of Peter and Paul, it was called, of course, “Dominik”. He immediately became popular, especially among not very wealthy citizens, students and chess players.

They wrote that by the middle of the day, from the influx of guests, the halls seemed to be in a fog because of the smoke and steam that filled them. It was calculated that on average each of the "Dominicans" - as the regulars of the institution were called - left 40 kopecks here. Equally popular was the Milbert, where the moderation of prices was explained by the huge number of regular visitors.

Troika at the restaurant "Eldorado" in Moscow in Petrovsky Park

The number of restaurants has been constantly growing - along with the increase in the population of the city, the development of business and social life, commercial and industrial activities. At the end of the 19th century, there were about 60 of them, in 1911 - more than 100 (not counting those that were arranged at railway stations, at clubs and hotels).

There were restaurants, especially loved by a certain category of metropolitan residents. During these years, the Pivato Brothers, Medved, and Kontan restaurants were among the most fashionable and expensive. In the latter, in 1916, a diplomatic reception was held in honor of the 25th anniversary of the Franco-Russian allied agreement.

Dinner for the French guests, given by the Moscow City Duma in the restaurant of the Big Moscow Hotel. 1912

In the capital there were several restaurants called "Exchange". The name already testified that they sat at its tables not only for a meal, but also for trade negotiations. These restaurants were located in parts of the city where there was intense commercial activity.

For the merchants, first of all, the restaurants "Mariinsky" and "Merchant", located next to Apraksin Dvor, were intended. The largest of them and the most authoritative - "Kyuba", located on Bolshaya Morskaya Street, close to the largest banks, has become a kind of unofficial exchange for the elite.

Representatives of the business elite met here to negotiate and conclude deals. For such business and friendly meetings in a more or less narrow circle, many restaurants had, along with the main halls, the so-called cabinets. For the first time, cabinets appeared in St. Petersburg in the middle of the 19th century.

Actors, directors, theater critics often gathered at Zist, near Alexandrinka. Often - at Litner. At one time, writers were very popular dinners, regularly hosted by the editors of major magazines.

Especially solemn events, anniversaries were celebrated in "Kontana". There were many visitors in "Small Yaroslavets", "Vienna". Among the restaurants of St. Petersburg there were those where they not only celebrated, dined, dined, exchanged news, rumors, impressions of what they saw and read, but also ... one might say, almost lived - spent many hours, wrote and even ... slept.

Such was Davydov's restaurant. He was loved, it seemed, contrary to common sense. He did not spoil his clients with culinary delights. A glass of vodka was followed by a piece of salted fish with bread or fried sausage with mashed potatoes. It's amazing that this place was called a restaurant. But, apparently, in an incredibly colorful audience, a completely relaxed atmosphere, there was something more attractive than respectability and good cuisine.

Students, of whom there were especially many on Vasilyevsky Island, went to the inexpensive "Bernhard", "London", to "Tikhonov", "Geyde". These "impromptu feasts were for the most part modest in nature: 1 bottle of red wine for two or 2-3 bottles of beer were drunk, and friends peacefully dispersed with a little noise in their heads." In the same establishments, one could play billiards and celebrate the end of the school year.

There were also restaurants in the capital that had a certain “national orientation”. The already mentioned restaurant Leiner was especially loved by the St. Petersburg Germans - more or less wealthy. Those who had more modest means went to establishments like the Heyde restaurant.

Here one could inexpensively - and at the same time it was good - to dine, sit, see friends. The Heyde restaurant was said to be a club - everyone here knew each other. Mainly for the Germans in the summer worked "Bavaria" - an open-air restaurant at the pleasure garden on Petrovsky Island.

Petersburg restaurants offered their guests an extensive menu, a huge selection of wines, vodkas, tinctures, liqueurs. For this, they had every opportunity - after all, meat, poultry and game were brought to the capital from different parts of Russia, butter and eggs, caviar and fish, including live ones.

Many restaurants had special pools where they kept her until she was sent to the stove. Petersburg gardeners supplied fresh herbs and vegetables for almost the entire year - cucumbers, green peas, green beans, cauliflower, asparagus, as well as champignons, strawberries and other berries.

St. Petersburg entrepreneurs did not stand aside either, smoking pork hams, beef tongues, fish, as well as producing canned vegetables, berry juices, and various confectionery products. Numerous bakeries provided the city with bread, muffins, pies, pastries, cakes. From abroad they brought ham and salami, oysters, lobsters, sardines, various types of cheese, fruits and, of course, wine. It came from France, Spain, Italy.

Over time, in the southern regions of Russia, a lot of good wine, which noticeably pressed the import. Strong drinks of St. Petersburg producers were famous - vodka, tinctures, liquors. Beer was in great demand and popularity.

All this abundance went to restaurants. At first, visitors found in them, first of all, dishes of French national cuisine. Italian dishes were offered somewhat less frequently. Fans of oriental exoticism could find kebabs, plov, azu, shish kebab, familiar to us even now, in the restaurant.

The first attempts to open Russian restaurants were unsuccessful, but soon they nevertheless appeared and gained popularity. The championship among them belonged to Palkin's restaurant, which was called the king of Russian cuisine. They loved and willingly visited "Small Yaroslavets". Here you could get sterlet's ear, village girl, pies and kulebyaki, Guryev porridge, hazel grouse cutlets, chopped turnips, piglet with horseradish, lamb side with buckwheat porridge ...

An elderly Frenchman who left Paris in connection with the revolutionary events of 1871, sitting at such a “Russian dinner”, used to say: “ He ran away from the Versaillese, but how to run away from a piglet and a lamb?

Naturally, plentiful meals were accompanied by alcoholic beverages. AT the best restaurants the wine list contained up to a hundred names. Some were also famous for their specific drinks. In Dominika it was zhzhenka, in Vienna it was a cold punch with ice (Vienna).

Moscow tavern chef

A good cook is the first condition for success. He and the head waiter were "commanders in chief" at the restaurant. But you also need a good "army". St. Petersburg restaurants have always been famous for their masters of cold and hot cuisine and culinary workshops. Work began a few hours before opening. Halls and offices were cleaned and ventilated, food was delivered to the kitchen, meat and fish were butchered, vegetables were cleaned, a stove was kindled and warmed up. By the time the chef arrived, everything was ready.

Subordinate to the chief cook were soup cooks, roasters, cold cookers, ovaries, greengrocers, confectioners, pastry chefs and other "kitchen artists" who created culinary masterpieces. Ancillary work was done by boys, kitchen men, dishwashers. The head waiter was in charge of the hall; The bartender occupied an important place in the restaurant staff. Waiters played a special role.

The best waiters came from the Yaroslavl province. They arrived in the capital as boys, went through all the stages of work in the kitchen and in the hall. And after decades, the most capable of them even became owners of restaurants. Entire dynasties arose, including 3-5 generations of waiters, then restaurant owners.

In the 1870s, "Artels of waiters in St. Petersburg" were even created with a charter, board, entrance fees, and a common capital. The first owners of restaurants were foreigners. But, of course, the further, the more Russians came to this occupation in different ways.

For example, V.I.Soloviev began with a small trade in fruits and gastronomy, which eventually grew into a very significant trading activity. Restaurant business has become a natural continuation of a career. The owners of restaurants sometimes became yesterday's peasants who came to the capital to earn money. Some eventually managed to engage in trade themselves, in particular, tavern trade.

There were also those who had more than one institution. Sometimes a person came to the restaurant business from a completely unexpected direction. So, in 1913, the actor A.S. Polonsky opened his own theater with a restaurant, and he paid no less attention to the development of the menu than to the theatrical performance. At the beginning of the twentieth century, more and more restaurants appeared, which were owned not by individuals, but by associations, most often, these were associations of waiters.

The location of the restaurant was of great importance. And most importantly, his visit was supposed to give the client maximum pleasure, to become a holiday. Everything was thought out - the clothes of employees, table linen, cutlery, crockery. Sometimes guests specifically noted that "the services are excellent."

In expensive restaurants, halls and offices were decorated with flowers, paintings, mirrors, fountains ... Wherever there was at least some opportunity, they arranged a garden, and in warm weather in summer it was possible to dine outdoors. There were restaurants that attracted to themselves precisely by the beautiful view that opened from the windows or from the terrace.

Such was the "Felicieten" on Kamenny Island, on the banks of the Bolshaya Nevka. Guests were offered a variety of entertainment. Almost everyone had billiards, some had bowling alley, lotto, dominoes, checkers, chess. The young M.I. Chigorin played chess in Dominica. Some establishments (albeit few) offered a large selection of magazines and newspapers. Gambling was banned.

Music began to play in many restaurants over time. At first, various mechanical "machines" were in fashion, for example, a mechanical organ. Gradually "live" music became popular. Orchestras played, the orchestras of the Guards regiments performed in the largest restaurants.

Gypsy dances, romances, choral singing enjoyed great love of the public. Brothers Ilya and Pyotr Sokolov often came from Moscow to St. Petersburg, later they were replaced by N.I. Shishkin and Massalsky. Many went specifically to listen to the gypsies. In the middle of the 19th century, they were constantly in one of the St. Petersburg restaurants.

Hungarian and Romanian orchestras were popular, one could listen to the Russian choir, "Little Russian duetists", and the Jewish ensemble. The career of some musicians began on the restaurant stage. Guest performers from Paris, Vienna, Milan sang in restaurants.

Pleasure gardens offered a particularly large program of entertainment. Mandatory in them were "military music orchestras" that played on the open stage.

During the intermission, artists performed humorous verses, stories "from folk life", gymnasts, clowns, acrobats. In addition, concerts, performances, vaudeville and operas were played in a special room. Often well-known St. Petersburg and touring actors took part in them. Of course, they did not go to the pleasure garden in order to have supper there. But it was impossible to do without a restaurant. Sometimes gardens were arranged by restaurateurs.

The most famous was the “Institution of artificial mineral waters” in Novaya Derevnya, founded in the 30s of the 19th century as a medical institution, but soon also became a place of rest for Petersburgers.

In the 1850s, I.I. Izler became the owner of Mineralnye Vody, who made them famous. Festivals, concerts, holidays began to take place here. Gypsies sang with great success, Russian songs, chansonettes were performed, and operettas were staged. It is believed that the garden greatly contributed to the spread of these genres in Russia. The garden was illuminated. A huge balloon rose above him, causing amazement and delight of the audience. The evening often ended with fireworks. Visitors to the garden called I. Izler a sorcerer.

It was said that the Emperor himself came to the garden incognito and expressed gratitude to the owner. If the guest was not satisfied with the program offered to everyone and wanted something personal, the host was ready to meet halfway. For example, once one of the regulars in the garden invited his friends there in order to better escape from everyday life, the company had to “leave” to another era, to be, say, in Ancient Rome. II Isler promised to arrange everything.

When the guests arrived and entered the office allotted to them, they saw "a banquet table, spectacularly decorated with vases, candelabra and flowers." There were not chairs around, but “soft sofas with pillows” - you could lie down on them, just as was customary among the feasting Roman aristocrats. Nearby “several baskets with greenery and fragrant flowers flaunted on small tables, wreaths of roses lay on the mirror-holders” - they were crowned with the heads of the companions. The host also prepared chitons and purple togas so that the guests could change their clothes.

The company began to settle in - "the sofas, as well as the floor around the table, were covered with greenery and flowers - the atmosphere turned out to be fresh and aromatic. The windows were closed and heavy curtains were lowered - a mysterious twilight was formed. After that, the main organizer, dressed in a toga and with a wreath on his head, began to cook burnt, "stirring it and fertilizing it with the addition of various spices." Friends wanted to watch the can-can without going into the hall where the performance was going on. And the owner promised to send the dancers to the office as soon as the performance on the main stage was over.

It is clear what work it took to arrange such a holiday. Popular restaurants that had many visitors had to have a significant staff of servants. "Vienna", starting with 40 employees, soon brought their number to 180.

By joint efforts, a “cheerful, upbeat feeling of the joy of life” was created, which attracted visitors. To organize the work and create such a mood is the main task of the owner. His other task (and not at all simple!) is to keep the holiday within certain boundaries. It happened that people got drunk, lost control of themselves, went beyond the bounds of decency.

Once D.V. Grigorovich brought F.I. Tyutchev to Davydov's restaurant, where "almost the entire literary brethren flocked." There was already a very cheerful company in the office. One well-known writer sat on another, also well-known, and "depicting a general commanding troops, yelled something incendiary." Tyutchev was deeply shocked and left so hastily that he forgot his hat. Grigorovich later claimed that Tyutchev had a nervous fever. But this case can be attributed to quite harmless. There were places where fights, brawls, drunken revelry became commonplace. There were casualties.

“The drunken youth,” recalls one of the Petersburgers of the mid-nineteenth century, “could not confine themselves to solid philosophical disputes and singing student songs. Young blood seethed ... ”Any incident was enough for a scandal to break out.

On the Petersburg side in the Alexander Park there was a restaurant - a favorite place for students of the Military Medical Academy. Somehow between one of them and the barman of the restaurant there was a clash, the barman called the police, who arrested the student. However, the comrades recaptured the arrested person.

« A sizable reserve of police forces soon arrived on the scene; the students, in turn, shouted that their comrade was being beaten, and a crowd of 200 people gathered in front of the restaurant.».

This, of course, is an extreme case, but still, debauchery, although not of such magnitude, is not uncommon. Responsibility for public order before the police was carried, first of all, by the owner of the establishment. The scandal could result not only in losses from broken mirrors, glasses and dishes, but - in the worst case, the deprivation of a license to trade.

Drinking establishments around the world have a wide classification. Some have sunk into oblivion, others have ceased to exist as "anti-people", while others have improved. Drinking establishments have been known since the 18th century BC, in Babylon there were capnelia in the ports, in Rome taberns (table, board).

Slavic world

Tavern- a drinking house, non-redeemable, with free sale, sometimes an inn with the sale of strong drinks. The name was common before the October Revolution in Ukraine and Belarus, southern Russia. In Russia, after the establishment of the tavern by Ivan the Terrible, there is a gradual displacement of the tavern. Since the 11th century, traces of a tavern have been found among almost all Slavs. The oldest drinks sold in the tavern are kvass, beer and honey. Almost every city had one tavern, while others had two or more.

Tavern- a public institution. Common Slavic and cooking recipes. The origin of the word tavern (originally kormocha) is interpreted differently. Some of the researchers of antiquity, going into deep antiquity, are looking for the root of this word in the Persian, Zend, Arabic and Turkish languages, while others, on the contrary, stop only in Slavic, arguing that the name of the tavern is nothing more than a derivative of the word "fodder". The latter interpretation is considered by many to be more plausible, if only because it comes closest to the immediate tasks of the tavern, which consisted mainly in feeding and watering the people visiting it. Whatever the origin of this word, the tavern is still a primordially Slavic institution. This is a historical fact against which there are no objections. Usually a large rectangular building, like a barracks, barracks. The Western Slavs have brick, stone. At the eastern and southern - wooden, log.

As for ancient Russia, the free tavern was considered the most fundamental institution in it. Where she appeared, there was a large population and wide trade, and vigorous activity. Kyiv is the cradle of the tavern. Novgorod, Pskov and Smolensk, the main centers of its location. Here the need for social life was in full swing, while in Suzdal, Vladimir and Moscow, where there was still no tavern, even the slightest movement was imperceptible. But over time, the tavern also captured North-Eastern Russia, immediately raising its interest in public life.

Shinok- Drinking house, tavern, tavern. Historically, the name was used in Poland, Ukraine, Belarus
(1.historical in pre-revolutionary Russia - a small drinking establishment
"Thus, as soon as the devil hid his moon in his pocket, it suddenly became so dark all over the world that not everyone would find the way to the tavern, not only to the clerk." N. V. Gogol. "Christmas Eve". 2. unfold restaurant, bar, etc.)
Comes from Wed-V.-Ger. schenke, schenk "tavern, tavern, tavern". Russian tavern (also old. tavern - from 1697), as well as Ukrainian. shink, shino?k, Belor. shynk, - loans. through the Polish szynk "tavern". They originated in Ukraine in the second half of the 16th century. The Commonwealth provoked the appearance of taverns. A small drinking establishment, with a small seating area, 3-5 tables. There was no music in the tavern in winter, as the musicians were placed outside during the warm season. The cuisine was Ukrainian. Most of the holders were Jews, Jews as they were called at that time. In the event of popular unrest, declarations of war or uprisings, the first to suffer are the shinkari. There was also a family contract. The man worked in the hall, the wife cooked, the children played the role of musicians (violinists).

Tavern- a place for the sale of state-owned vodka. 1550 - the first tavern in Moscow under Ivan the Terrible for guardsmen. Began to bring in a lot of income. There were no snacks to get drunk faster. The tavern was considered a hot place, the contingent was not the best. At the end of the 17th century, under Peter I, snacks appeared: pickled apples, sauerkraut, salted milk mushrooms. The taverns were closed as anti-people establishments in 1861 under Alexander II.

Taverns- tract, road (Mongolian). 20s of the 18th century. They appeared at road stations where they changed horses - pits. By the way, this is where the word coachman comes from. A traveler at such stations could rest, and the horses were also given rest. They served tea, snacks, rarely hot food. In the mid-60s of the 19th century, city taverns appeared. They were located in the basement, semi-basement rooms. A new form of service - sexual, the ancestors of the waiters. They worked without salary, demanded tips, and were even ready to wipe the guests' beards with towels. Extensive entertainment program, singing romances (chanson), gypsy choir, violinists. Extensive menu, lots of snacks. Cabins appeared, the prices were cheap, that is, they were designed for different segments of the population. Survived the revolution, but ceased to exist in the 30s of the 20th century.

Kolyba- Carpathian drinking and edible institution. Mainly Lviv and Ivano-Frankivsk regions, Carpathians, Slovakia, Romania.

Lord- a small Czech pub where you can have lunch. The walls are covered with dark brown boards. Additional drinks - plum vodka.

Restaurant from fr. restauer, restore, fix) - a catering company with a wide range of dishes complex cooking, including custom and branded; wine, vodka, tobacco and confectionery products, an increased level of service in combination with the organization of recreation.

Restaurants are sometimes located in larger establishments, such as hotels, where catering services are provided for the convenience of the residents and to increase the potential income of the hotel.

The owner of the restaurant business is called a restaurateur; both words come from the French verb restauer (to restore, strengthen, feed). It should be noted that restaurant in American English is any catering establishment in general, and not just a restaurant.

USA
Bar. Of course, there was no such state at that time, there were so-so, separate states. The most realistic version is that the word "bar" is short for the word barrier. Since in 1870 the "gold rush" began in California. The searchers spent their free time in drinking establishments, drinking their gold, arranging fights, shooting. Therefore, the person who served them had to come up with a barrier, a method of protection, so that the guest could not reach him. Such protection was a wide plate, a board that separated the visitor from the owner. Here is the BARRIER for you, and the person who was behind the barrier began to be called a bartender. In 1920-1921, bars spread widely in Europe and started again from Paris. American soldiers after the First World War did not particularly want to return home and settled in Paris. New York Paris Club, the first bar in Paris in 1921. After the Second World War, bars spread all over the world. In the USSR, the first bar opened at the Intourist Hotel in Moscow in 1959. More distribution occurred in 1979-1980 during the Olympics.

Germany
The Germans in the Middle Ages had herberki. They are characterized by a building in the form of a circle, a pavilion, like a detached house. were also popular kellers, semi-cellars, beer cellars. By the way, from the word keller, "kelner" comes from, that is, a waiter, this word is still in everyday life in Poland and in some regions of Germany.
England
In England - gasthauses. Wine, beer, whiskey and other strong alcoholic drinks were served. By the way, linen tablecloths and napkins were used for the first time in these establishments. Pubs- these are port alehouses, for dockers, they served mainly ale, women were not allowed in pubs and it was only a male establishment. The Irish pub of the 17th century differs significantly from the English. You can meet women, there is strong alcohol (whiskey), food, pork ribs, meat dishes celebrating celebrations.

France
There is more choice of places where you can spend your free time.
Cabaret Nue a small establishment, in the form of a home living room (most likely they became the prototype of lounge bars), upholstered furniture, a piano. For rich bachelors, but without intimacy, men who were on business trips and homesick also had home-cooked food, that is, what the hostess put on the table - they ate it, there was no choice. There were cookbooks on the shelves. different countries and the guest could even choose some dish familiar to him, which was prepared especially for him. The establishments were named after the first owner.

Cabaret- spectacular establishments, people have already come to them for spectacles, to have a good time, to get to know each other, to chat. The main show was a variety show (cancan), clowning, pantomime, performances by artists. Desserts were served, sparkling wines were present.

Bistro- have a very interesting history. After the victory of Napoleon Bonaparte, Russian troops stood in Paris. The Cossacks, who did not have time, ran into any drinking establishment, regardless of class, audience or price, and shouted from the threshold "quickly, quickly pour a drink." They literally ate a piece of bread, ran out, sat on their horse. Therefore, savvy Parisians opened "bistro" establishments. In the Soviet era, such establishments were called KVS, that is, "coffee, water, juices." One, two tables, in the range of 2 types of vodka, three types of fortified wines, 2-3 types of snacks. He drank and went on about his business.

Cafe- were founded in London, around 1652, but popularized by France. In Marseilles in 1671, a cafe opens, of course, it bears the name from the word "coffee". Croissants, liqueurs, brandy were also served. And of course, the drink of kings is hot chocolate. Only then did they begin to offer various kinds of snacks and hot dishes. Tavern- tavern on the road. Also French adventure. It was mainly held by wealthy peasants. Served homemade food, red wine. In Spain, Portugal and Italy, taverns served seafood, rum, brandy.
Restaurants originated in Paris in the early 18th century. At that time, people ate mainly in dry food, firewood was expensive and only wealthy people could light a stove for cooking. Parisian innkeeper Bumange hangs a sign "Restoration of the stomach." They offered grated soups, mashed potatoes, broths, soft-boiled eggs, broths. Competitors also began to introduce such dishes, they only hang signs "Restoration" which then grew into restaurants. Menus have appeared, guests have a choice of dishes. In the 20s of the 18th century, restaurants appeared in the Russian Empire, namely, of course, in St. Petersburg. Small establishments, 5-10 tables. The cook himself carried out the dishes, the cuisine is usually French. In the first half of the 19th century, restaurants take on the classic look that we know to this day. Essence: the hall is located on the second floor, where the main staircase, wardrobe, doorman, high ceilings lead. Evening dresses, neckline, tailcoats, tuxedos. They go to these establishments in order to communicate, have a good time, and eat delicious dishes.

In the world. Some do not agree with this statement, others, on the contrary, are even proud of it, and others are neutral. But when did drinking establishments first appear in Russia? Who became the reformer? We will try to understand this issue further.

Drunkenness - the eternal vice of Russia?

Many people think that the drinking establishment already existed in the old days, having arisen, so to speak, from the very beginning of the formation of the state, and the Russian peasant was already suffering from alcoholism then. But it's not. Russians used only low-alcohol drinks with a strength of no more than 1-6%: home brew, honey, beer, kvass. Their action quickly vanished. During the period of cultural ties with Byzantium, red was imported to Russia, which was used only on church holidays among the “best” people of the principality. But these drinks were also not too strong - no more than 12%, and were consumed only diluted with water, just as they did in Greece and Byzantium. When did the first drinking establishments appear in Russia? How did it all start?

Feast - a princely tradition

Old Russian epics, fairy tales and stories mention princely feasts, at which “tables were breaking”. These were private feasts that the princes arranged for their boyars. Such gatherings were called "brothers", and women were not allowed to them.

But there were events at which the weaker sex was present, and such feasts in this case were called "skladchiny". Until now, such a word is found in oral speech: for example, "play pool", which means to share the costs equally, buy something together, although more and more often such expressions are becoming a thing of the past. And we will return to our topic.

The most popular drinks at such events were:

• Red wine from Byzantium (before the Mongol-Tatar invasion).
• Beer.
• Kvass, which, in fact, was similar to beer in taste.
• Honey. The meaning of this word translated into modern language means "medovukha". Sometimes they made a clarification - “hoppy honey”, but not always.
• Braga. In fact, it was made from honey, only it was added in smaller quantities, since there was no sugar then.

Drinks were made independently in each princely or boyar court.

"Do not drive away the Pituhs!", or The first drinking establishments in Russia

The first official opening of the "bars" is not associated with the name of Peter the Great, as many might immediately think, but with another controversial character in our history - Ivan the Terrible.

After drinking establishments began to appear in Moscow and were called taverns. After some time, they began to call them "royal taverns", "circle houses". And only in the middle of the 18th century they received the definition of "drinking establishments".

With the opening of such establishments, drinks at home ceased to be produced. Everyone wanted to spend time in a crowded place.

It is very curious that the first official units of measurement of liquids were named after measures from the first "bars": a bucket, a foot, a mug, etc.

The very same word "tavern" of Tatar origin had the meaning of "inn". That is, initially these were the first hotels for guardsmen and soldiers, in which various alcoholic drinks were served.

But taverns began to attract the general population, and fees from the sale of alcoholic beverages to the treasury exceeded all expectations.

“Pitukhov (from the word“ drink ”) should not be driven away from the tsar’s taverns; This means that the authorities of the Moscow state not only did not fight against drunkenness in the country, but, on the contrary, developed such establishments and encouraged alcohol consumption among the general population. The names of the drinking establishments were different: "Big Tsar's Tavern", "Inextinguishable Candle". But all of them were officially called "royal taverns", and since 1651 - "circle yards". And only in 1765 they received the name "drinking houses".

The first "dry laws" in Russia

The situation with drunkenness was so serious that Tsar Alexei Mikhailovich was forced to convene at which the fate of such "bars" was decided. Then the authorities wisely limited the number of such establishments, and allowed to sell takeaway no more than one cup. But to overcome the habit of the people is not so easy. Vodka was bought in buckets, as there were simply no bottles familiar today. One such container of "life-giving water" or "hot wine" contained about 14 liters of drink.

An interesting fact: the quality of vodka was determined by weight. If the bucket weighed 30 pounds (about 13.6 kg), then the alcohol was considered good quality, not diluted. If more - the owner was waiting for a harsh disassembly. By the way, today you can also resort to similar verification methods. One liter of pure 40% vodka should weigh exactly 953 grams.

Taverns close - taverns open

Since 1881, there has been a qualitative change in the anti-alcohol policy of the state.

The pubs are closed from now on. But instead of them, a small drinking establishment appears - a tavern or a tavern (originally this term was applied to moonshine). There were several differences:

1. In addition to alcohol, they began to sell snacks, which had not been practiced before.
2. It was introduced in the country, which means that such an institution was obliged to take a special permit for the sale and purchase alcohol only from state-owned distilleries.

Mendeleev "invented" vodka?

At this time, a special commission was convened, headed by the famous chemist D. Mendeleev. She decides how to instill in the population a culture of drinking in order to "teach them to look at vodka as an element of a feast, and not as a means of causing severe intoxication and oblivion."

Apparently, this is why the myth is widespread in our country that it was Mendeleev who "invented" vodka. Actually it is not. It was only for the first time that this term, at the official level, began to be called a strong alcoholic drink. Before that, it was called differently: “boiled wine”, “bread wine”, “pilot”, “fiery water”. The term "vodka" itself was considered slang before that, it came from the diminutive "water", "vodka" and was used only in relation to medicinal tinctures based on alcohol. Hence it is believed that our famous chemist "invented" vodka. But at the same time, it is worth noting that Mendeleev deduced the modern optimal proportions of the drink: 40-45% alcohol, the rest is water.

Issues not resolved

The excise reform had the opposite effect: a high-quality product was replaced by cheap, low-quality potato vodka, as the few permitted factories worked either for export or for army medicine.

After the revolution, the sale of alcohol was completely banned, but since 1924, its sale was resumed. After that, there was still an attempt to introduce a "dry law" during the perestroika period, but such a policy destroyed only high-quality alcohol in the country, and such republics as Georgia and Moldova were on the verge of bankruptcy, since the main percentage of their exports were wine materials and wine.

public catering enterprise in the old days in Russia

. (local) same as: marrow

. (figurative meaning) about disorder, ugliness, uncleanness, reminiscent of the atmosphere of a tavern

Drinking establishment (in Russia until 1917)

In Russia until 1917 - a lower-class restaurant, usually with a hotel; establishment for the sale and drinking of alcoholic beverages

Kruzhny yard

A place associated with drinking, a diminutive of the word associated with a snack

A. Alyabyev's song to Ogarev's verses

Drinking establishment, which was often mentioned by S. Yesenin

A plant of the gourd family, with large leaves, yellow melliferous flowers and very large fleshy fruits; homeland of K-ka - Central Asia; in Russian - pumpkin

Russian catering company

Old eatery, tavern

Ukrainian tavern in fact

Circled in Russia

Place of work of the kisser

. "restaurant" of Ancient Russia

This word came to the Russian language from Tatar, where it meant a vessel made of pumpkin, convenient in nomadic life, then a certain institution was also called this word

What palindrome denotes a place where it is easy for many to enter, but not to leave?

At the expense of what establishments were “drunk” money earned for the royal treasury in the 17th century?

Tatars have a gourd vessel for storing alcoholic beverages

restaurant

Inexpensive restaurant

Tavern

Restaurant (colloquial)

Establishment for sprees

Shinok, tavern

Establishment for moths

Shinok, circled

drinking establishment

Pivnushka

Tavern

Restaurant before the revolution

Pivbar palindrome

circled

A tavern where they pour

Gluttonous establishment for bros

Colloquial name of the restaurant

wicked establishment

A place to have a drink

Canteen for shorn brothers

Pivbar of Ancient Russia

Old Russian restaurant

Drinking place

Pivbarpalindrome

drinking point

Cellar with booze

Circled or tavern

Old Russian eatery

drinking cellar

Shinok, tavern

Drinking house

drunk shop

Drinking establishment in the old days, tavern, eatery

Alyabyev's song

Restaurant of Ancient Russia

. "Restaurant" of Ancient Russia

Due to which establishments did "drunk" money be earned for the royal treasury in the 17th century

What palindrome denotes a place where it is easy for many to enter, but not to exit

M. drinking house, tavern; old circled; comic. Ivan Elkin; a place where vodka is sold, sometimes also beer and mead. A tavern is actually called a ransom drinking establishment. To see people, to visit taverns. Look for a mischievous man in prison, and a drunkard in a tavern. A tavern for a hunter: whoever wants to, will wrap up (wanders), and whoever does not want to, walks past. kabake was born, baptized in wine. Where there is a zucchini, there is a man. Where there is a tavern, there is my friend! The tavern is an abyss, there is an abyss. in a tavern they bring it, and they ask for favors home. Wherever you want, swear there, but make peace in the tavern! Go to a tavern, drink wine, beat the poor, you will be archer. Let's go to church! "Look, dirty." "Well, so in a tavern?" "Is there any way to get under the fence?" I came to mass, they buried, I came to mass, they buried; came to the tavern just like that! i.e. just right. Sleep and a woman, a tavern and a bath are one fun! A tobacconist to tobacco, and a drunkard to a tavern. A drunkard to church, but they say: to a tavern! Two taverns in the village, and a church on the mountain. For bread, yes, it will not be taxed, but for a tavern, yes, it will be for tobacco. From the bath it itches, but from the tavern it does not stagger, to no avail. The zucchini will diminish. days, decanters for vodka in liqueurs, on a common pallet, or the same travel device, in a chest. supplier. Novoros. small, oblong pumpkin, squash, lower. tebeka. Zucchini pl. novoros. sunflower seeds? for a treat. Tavern, tavern, belonging to the tavern, related. Kabachnik m. seller of squash drinks; sitlets, kisser: who spend time in taverns, -nice well. a vodka saleswoman or a tavern-keeper's wife; drunk in taverns. Tavern, stagger around taverns and get drunk. To sip, keep a tavern

Gluttonous establishment (colloquial)